Chiang Mai: Thailand's ancient capital and a modern hub for creativity

Chiang Mai breaks all the stereotypes of a Thailand postcard. Most tourists visit the Country's northern region for trekking and elephant spotting but fly away with much more. Chiang Mai is fast becoming a sophisticated and creative city supporting local aspirations and exceeding visitor expectations. Like many great cities around the world, it's the hidden and unexpected experiences that make this destination, a place to remember. 

Chiang Mai is known for its rich culture (it was once the ancient capital of the Lanna Kingdom), its surrounding natural beauty including mountain ranges, forests and waterfalls, and its strong Buddhist religious traditions (over 200 temples in and around Chiang Mai). These features, along with access to elephant parks (some more ethical than others), is what most tourists visit the region to experience. Yet in recent years, the City is focusing less on what the tourist wants and more on what locals need. 

Trekking in Chiang Mai. Image courtesy John O'Callaghan. 

In 2010, the Creative Chiang Mai (CCM) initiative was launched to promote local innovation, build on the City's cultural strengths and further develop the creative and knowledge economy. The high level strategy priorities local artists, entrepreneurs and creatives, to focus on talent and diversify market offer away from the big two economies - agriculture and tourism.   

CCM projects include linking up with global talkfest TEDxChiangMai, managing an online portal for handmade products in Chiang Mai, known as HMCM (watch a great video of the here), and working closely with a not-for-profit art learning center, Meedee Depo, to encourage artistic expression in children. The CCM is also being advertised around the City in Museums and creative spaces like Things Called Art. 

Ms. Siriwan Lohacheewa, the driving force behind Things Called Art, is happy to share information on CCM (with posters and stickers in the shopfront) and keeps up to date with their initiatives and news via facebook. Lohacheewa also cautions that on its way to being a 'creative city', authenticity is important for Chiang Mai "It might be super great if we could be creative city in the future but I hope it won't be fake." 

The City's youth can also be thanked for the changing face of Chiang Mai. The trendy precinct of Nimmanhaemin Road, in close proximity to the City's University and just outside the 'old city', is another neighbourhood changing the face of Chiang Mai.

Galleries that double as artist studios and making spaces are common around Nimmanhaemin. A comfortable lounge, studio and gallery, Gallery Seescape, located down a side street off Nimmanhaemin is a popular spot for young creatives. The multi use/functionality of space that exists in Chiang Mai (and other Asian cities) is an exemplar for traditional western planning practice.   

A passionate cafe culture is also thriving, with coffee beans ordered daily, grown (arabica) and roasted in the nearby mountains, then served in the hipster cafes along Nimmanhaemin. Ristr8to serves your chosen style with talented (and award winning) latte art, but also educates the consumer on everything you need to know about coffee. 

With influences from other 'coffee capitals' around the world located in countries like Australia, Colombia and Ethiopia, these coffee shops are not only the latest craze, they're also looking outward, beyond Chiang Mai, to a globalised world.

Just like coffee, Chiang Mai's food scene is also changing. The return of David and Thanyarat Gordon, to Chiang Mai, has produced David's Kitchen at 909, a French Thai fusion restaurant delivering high quality fine dining by Chef Arthit Dissunont. With culinary art to match the impressive personal service, David's Kitchen is a sophisticated addition to Chiang Mai's diverse food offering.

The Chiang Mai hospitality is polite, warm and generous. Its creativity is booming and evolving. Here at TC we'll be watching closely to see its next move. 

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Have you been to Chiang Mai? What have I missed here?

Buddhist Monk. Image courtesy John O'Callaghan.

Latte Art at Ristr8to. Image courtesy John O'Callaghan. 

Chiang Mai Historical Centre. Image courtesy John O'Callaghan.

Creative City Chiang Mai Logo and Feedback Box. Image courtesy John O'Callaghan. 

Things Called Art. Image courtesy John O'Callaghan. 

'Turf' by Wang Ying-Kai. Image courtesy John O'Callaghan. 

Ristr8to. Image courtesy John O'Callaghan. 

David's Kitchen Bourguignon. Image courtesy John O'Callaghan. 

Cocktail at David's Kitchen. Image courtesy John O'Callaghan. 

Tanah Rata: A taste of Europe in Malaysia

In record numbers Australians are travelling overseas and exploring the best the world has to offer. It’s a growing appetite for cultural tourism that looks to continue given the rise of budget airlines and strong Australian dollar. After counting the number of family, friends, and friends of friends who have travelled over the past 12 months, it’s no secret we love a good deal, and at risk of becoming a rite of passage, must travel overseas and explore lands beyond our own island paradise.

What’s interesting from the data is that we’re choosing to visit our regional neighbours over longer, more expensive flights to Europe. But what if you had Europe on your doorstep and you didn’t even know it? I must admit it’s not something that you travel to Asia to experience, but it’s definitely a surprise when you find yourself being offered a scone and tea in the middle of Malaysia.

I recently returned from the Cameron Highlands where I found the design of Tanah Rata, the administrative capital of the region, looking more like Tudor England than Malay. The pitched roofs, timbering and white facades of the town, are now built into the local design code and encouraged as supporting the character of the area. But where did it all start? The answer lies in a local celebrity, ‘Ye Old Smokehouse Hotel’.

Built in 1937, the Hotel was designed to mimic an English Inn, and since its foundation, has been a local and international attraction. Not only is the exterior impressive, but inside it only gets more interesting with imported furniture, open fire places and English inspired menu.

The Hotel, while being too expensive for most locals, is a popular destination for professionals, businessmen and Europeans. In 2013, several additional hotels will open in the region, responding to demand from local and international tourists and Malaysia’s growing middle class. Over the next few years, it will be interesting to see how the new hotels position themselves given the popularity of the Smokehouse, and how the Smokehouse responds to an increase in competition. One thing is for sure, the architectural design of Tanah Rata will continue as an obvious sign post to the regions colonial past.

More information about Cameron Highlands here.

Tanah Rata Interior

Tanah Rata Exterior

Park Bridge at Tanah Rat

Tanah Rata High Street